This hike to Mt Bandagamori (蟠蛇森) at 769m is a 6.1km return hike with a solid 648m of elevation gain that starts and finishes at the Sodayama Shrine (桑田山神社) (or the train station, if you prefer).
Mt. Bandagamori is a great hike if you are in Japan in winter and want to avoid the winter snow found on higher peaks, or if you simply want a glimpse of “Old Japan” without straying too far from civilisation. Conveniently, it can be done as a walk to and from Asō Station (吾桑駅). This area is also famous for the Yuwari cherry blossoms, which are some of the earliest blooming sakura in the region. There is also a famous onsen nearby!
Trail Information
Hike time: Approx 4 hours
Season: Winter (February)
Difficulty: Fitness (Grade 1: Easy) Technical (Grade 1: Easy)
Safety notes: The trail can be a bit tricky to find, but you always have the road to follow if you get lost.
Access
Trailhead: Sodayama Shrine (桑田山神社)
We started at the Sodayama Shrine. There is a large clearing at the bottom that we used for parking. However the actual trail head is here close to the Sakura River.
Suggested Meeting / Supply Point: Family Mart Susaki Midorimachi
Download or view trail map
Note: This trail was hand drawn (not recorded) from my notes. You’ll need to navigate using the signs and trail markers on the ground, as the GPX file is an approximation only.
App or map? While many rely on navigation apps these days I strongly recommend printing a copy of your hike maps using one of the free topographic maps and apps.
Post-Hike Notes
Despite being a relatively small peak at just 769m, the full hike is a solid walk, especially if you start down at the trailhead near the river. This was actually my first hike in Kochi, and we tackled it as a large group. We started at Sodoyama Shrine around 10am, using the large clearing at the bottom for parking. It was a cold and misty February day with rain on the forecast, but we decided to proceed anyway.
The road itself zig-zags up the hill, but the trail cuts in between the switchbacks, which saves a lot of time. You have to keep an eye out for the white trail marking signs – if you miss them, you’ll end up following the much longer road route until you can find the next section.
As you continue on the trail that winds past houses, you’ll see the Sodayama Community Centre. Head up the hill where you’ll meet the road at a big warehouse on your right; the trail picks back up on the left. It is always amazing, and a little bittersweet, seeing the shrines and history of these small, declining villages. People clearly still live here and love the place, but nature is slowly taking over many of the buildings.
We found the next section of the trail a little hard to figure out, but if you’re on the right path, you’ll eventually reach a part where the trail goes under a very large transmission line. I often think how many good views in Japan are ruined by powerlines and wonder if the Japanese have the same aversion?
On the next section, you’re looking for vertical posts that mark the trail with “道なりにGO”. You really don’t want to miss the trail and follow the road here, as the road itself would be quite the detour.
At the summit, it was a complete cloud-out. The usual fantastic 360 degree views over Susaki and the ocean were just not there – but at least it didn’t rain! We made a point to go to the top of the viewing tower anyway and shared a foggy lunch before heading back.
The trail down is generally pretty straightforward, however, we missed the track turn-off once and had to take a short section of road to get back. We finished the hike about 3pm and headed straight for the nearby Sodayama Onsen.
Sodayama Onsen
Located just a short distance from the trailhead, this onsen is the perfect way to finish a winter hike. It is famous for its “Bijin-no-yu” (water for beautiful skin) and has a classic, peaceful atmosphere.
The bathhouse claims to have been discovered over 1000 years ago, and you can really feel that history when you’re there. All I know is soaking in a hot onsen after a soggy day or walking is hard to beat.
- Name: Sodayama Onsen “Waraku-no-Sato” (そうだ山温泉 和楽の里)
- Price: Approximately 700 – 800 yen for day visitors.
- Website: Sodayama Onsen Official Site
Images of Mt Bandagamori
